Dry 4C hair can feel like an uphill battle, but with the right approach, you can restore moisture and keep those curls thriving. 4C hair is naturally prone to dryness due to its tight curl pattern, which makes it harder for natural oils to travel down the strands from the scalp. But don’t worry, hydration is within reach! From moisture-rich products to protective styling and the power of hydrating hair masks, two hair experts share everything you need to know to revive dry 4C hair.
Meet the expert
- Lacy Redway is a celebrity hairstylist and SheaMoisture education partner.
- Miko Branch is the co-founder of Miss Jessie’s.
How to Care For 4C Hair
1. Cleanse Regularly
When washing dry 4C hair, balance is key—aim for every one to two weeks to cleanse without stripping natural oils. That;s because clean hair is better able to accept nutrients from moisturizing ingredients. Choose a sulfate-free, moisturizing shampoo for gentle yet effective cleansing. “4C hair needs extra nourishment and care,” says Branch. “The key is to have hair feeling soft, but not stripped and dry post-cleanse.”
In between washes, our experts say co-washing (cleansing with conditioner) can help retain moisture. “The idea of co-washing is that you are cleansing your hair with a conditioner instead of a traditional shampoo, which makes it difficult to strip the hair of moisture,” explains Branch. It's great if your hair is begging for hydration but isn't quite ready for a full shampoo. Just make sure co-washing is in your routine in addition to regular shampooing—not instead of.
2. Deep Conditioning
Deep conditioning is crucial for 4C hair as it replenishes moisture, enhances elasticity, and strengthens strands, reducing breakage and improving manageability. Due to the tightly coiled structure of 4C hair, natural scalp oils struggle to travel down the hair shaft, making regular deep conditioning essential for maintaining healthy, nourished hair.
“To deep condition 4C hair, start with damp, cleansed, and sectioned hair and apply a generous amount of deep conditioner, focusing on the ends first,” says Redway. “Look for deep conditioners rich in hydrating ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil, and aloe vera to provide intense nourishment."
3. Leave-In Moisturizers
If your hair frequently feels dry, tangles easily, is prone to frizz and breakage, and absorbs products quickly but loses moisture just as fast, you likely have high porosity hair. For this hair type, the LOC method (leave-in conditioner, oil, and cream) can be transformative, says Redway. “High porosity hair benefits from this moisture-locking system, starting with hydration from a leave-in, sealing it with oil, and finishing with cream to create a barrier that locks in moisture and enhances curl definition. It’s ideal for keeping curls soft, nourished, and frizz-free.”
“To do the LOC method on 4C hair, start with damp or freshly washed hair. Making sure water is present for the first few steps is key to sealing 4C hair with moisture,” says Redway. Begin by applying a liquid or leave-in conditioner to hydrate and prepare the strands. “A great leave-in conditioner is the SheaMoisture Amla Oil Bond Repair Leave-in Conditioner, as it makes for easy detangling and softly defines and smooths textured hair,” says Redway. Next, seal in moisture with an oil, like coconut or castor oil, focusing on the ends. Finish with cream, such as a curl-defining butter, to lock in hydration and enhance curl definition. Work in sections to ensure even coverage, and gently style or twist your hair for maximum moisture retention and curl protection.
If your hair feels consistently dry, even after regular moisturizing, it could be a sign of low porosity hair. This hair type has tightly closed cuticles that make it difficult for moisture to penetrate. As a result, products tend to sit on top of the hair rather than absorbing into it, leading to a lack of hydration and nourishment. Low-porosity hair often requires lighter, more penetrating products and techniques. Branch suggests the LCO method as an effective solution. Begin with a liquid or leave-in conditioner on damp hair to infuse moisture. Next, apply a lightweight cream to seal hydration, focusing on your ends. Finish with an oil, like jojoba or argan, to lock in moisture and add shine. Work in sections for even coverage, gently detangling with fingers or a wide-tooth comb. “Adding oil last creates a protective barrier against frizz,” says Redway.
4. Protective Styling
Protective styles are key for retaining length and moisture, particularly for textured hair. “Styles like box braids, twist outs, and cornrows are ideal for dry 4C hair because they reduce manipulation and help lock in hydration,” says Redway. It’s essential to avoid tight styles that cause tension at the roots, as this can lead to breakage or even hair loss. Choose styles that protect your hair while still allowing it to breathe and stay nourished.
5. Night Care
The key to preventing frizz and moisture loss for dry 4C hair at night is to ensure that it’s well-moisturized before you go to sleep. “At night, your hair has the opportunity to really absorb the products you apply, especially since it won’t be competing against environmental factors that cause moisture loss such as heat and humidity,” says Redway. "Invest in a satin or silk bonnet and pillowcase. These fabrics are gentle on your hair and minimize friction and moisture loss. Trust me, your hair will thank you in the morning!”